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How much is my Pokémon card worth?

Updated: 2026-10-15

A Pokémon card is worth what people actually pay for it in completed sales, not what sellers are asking. To find out, you need to identify the exact version (set, number, finish, language and edition), judge its condition, and look for recent sales of that same version in that same condition.

1. Identify the exact version

This is where most people go wrong. There are Pikachus in dozens of sets, and within one set the same card can come in several versions with very different prices. Write down:

• Name and number: the number at the bottom (for example, 4/102) identifies the card within its set. We explain how to read it in how to read a card number.
• Set: the expansion symbol or, on recent cards, the code printed next to the number.
• Finish: non-holo, holo or reverse holo. They are not worth the same (see holo vs reverse holo).
• Rarity: the symbol in the bottom corner. Check what each symbol means.
• Edition: on vintage cards, 1st Edition, Shadowless or Unlimited changes everything. See how to tell them apart.
• Language: the same card in Japanese, English or another language doesn't sell for the same price.

2. Be honest about condition

Raw reference prices usually assume a card in near-perfect condition (Near Mint). If yours has white corners, holo scratches or a crease, it's worth less, sometimes much less. Check it out of the sleeve, under good light:

• Corners and edges on the back: that's where whitening shows.
• Surface under a side light: scratches, fingerprints, dents.
• Centering: if the borders are very uneven, the value drops.
• Creases or bends: they take off the most.

3. Look for sold prices, not listings

A listing is what someone wants to get. A completed sale is what someone paid. Always look at recent sales of the same version in the same condition, and discard the odd ones: lots, damaged cards that don't show in the photo, auctions with a single bidder, or prices far above the rest.

On CardFolio's price pages you get the raw price, the price by PSA grade and the price history of thousands of cards. To see which are worth the most, take a look at the most expensive Pokémon cards.

4. Raw or graded: two different prices

A graded card (in a PSA, BGS or CGC slab) has its own price at each grade. The gap between a 9 and a 10 can be huge for some cards and small for others. If your card isn't graded, don't compare it with a PSA 10 price: compare it with the raw price. And if you're thinking about grading it, read whether grading is worth it.

What pushes the price up or down

Factor	Why it matters
Pokémon	Charizard, Pikachu, Umbreon, the legendaries and the fan favorites pull more than the rest.
Age	Old cards in good condition are scarce, but a card isn't valuable just because it's old.
Rarity	Illustration rares, secret rares and short-print cards are usually worth more.
Condition	The same card can be worth several times more in perfect condition than with wear.
Demand	The market moves: reprints, trends and competitive play change prices.

Common mistakes

• Trusting the first listing that shows up in a search.
• Confusing the card with another of the same Pokémon from a different set.
• Comparing a played card with the price of a perfect one.
• Assuming it's valuable because it's holo or because it's old.

Prices change and nothing guarantees a card will go up. Use them to know what it's worth today, not as a promise.

Let the AI do it for you

CardFolio's AI analysis identifies your card from a photo (set, number and version), estimates the PSA grade it would get, and tells you what it's worth raw and at each grade, and whether grading pays off. If you only want the price, look it up on the price pages.

Option	Price	What's included
No plan	€1.49	one analysis, no subscription
CardFolio Pro	€3.99/month	10 AI analyses a month
CardFolio Max	€9.99/month	50 AI analyses a month
CardFolio Élite	€19.99/month	up to 150 AI analyses a month

Your first analysis is free when you sign up. Prices in euros, VAT included. Cancel your plan anytime.

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